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CA Primer... (Read 847 times)
 
John Grace
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CA Primer...
Sep 8th, 2019 at 4:33pm
 
Does anyone have an article they can point me to with respects to the use of CA glue and CA vs epoxy in turning?  If not...anyone interested in writing the 'basics' for me?  thanks...
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Ed Weber
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #1 - Sep 9th, 2019 at 8:29am
 
What aspect are you inquiring about, their use as a filler and/or crack repair or as a finish?
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John Grace
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #2 - Sep 9th, 2019 at 6:59pm
 
Sorry ed, crack filler.
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Ed Weber
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #3 - Sep 9th, 2019 at 9:11pm
 
Are you looking to creatively fill voids and cracks (wabi-sabi)
IMO, it depends on what's being filled and how big it is.
If it's a small void crack, you can use a thick CA without issue. Thin CA tends to migrate too far into the surrounding wood and can have a negative effect by darkening the entire area.
Epoxy works well and can be colored with many types of things from dyes to crushed materials like stone and metal.
There are also casting resins that can be used to creatively fill cracks and voids. Pretty much the same as epoxy but with slightly different properties
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Grant Wilkinson
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #4 - Sep 10th, 2019 at 7:15am
 
I'm with Ed. For anything other than very small gaps, epoxy is the way to go. I've tried many products, but settled on West Systems 650 flex. It's a two part epoxy that takes tinting well and seems to fill better than any of the epoxies that I've tried. The techs at West System are very open to questions and providing good advice. I'm not expert enough to write a primer for you, but I can say that, if you use the 650, it helps to warm both parts up on a water bath. This "thins" it out so that it will flow into small voids. It does mean that it will set quicker, though. My last project using this was a maple burl vase with too many voids. I used plumbers putty to form a dam around a void, then filled the area with  tinted 650. The putty kept the epoxy from running all over the place, and came off easily when the 650 was set up. The 650 turns and sands easily, and shines up nicely when finished.
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #5 - Sep 10th, 2019 at 8:25am
 
Another thing I forgot to mention is that CA is brittle when cured, epoxy is not.
When working with wood, the natural movement of the wood can cause voids to open and close.  CA will not expand and contract with the wood, this can cause the filler to come loose and give you more issues than you started with. epoxy is a much safer bet for  this reason alone.
IMO, CA is great for an adhesive in the right place but for filling, epoxy is a much better option.
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John Grace
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #6 - Sep 14th, 2019 at 5:42pm
 
Thank you for all of the fine comments...it sounds like I'll 'stick' with epoxy (pun intended).  Now for the next obvious question...is there a preferred brand?  I typically use Depot's Gorilla glue but admit I'm sometimes frustrated in that it doesn't always seem to 'settle' to the bottom of a crack.  Is there a thinner version I should be using or is it simply my own user error?  again...thanks.
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Ed Weber
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #7 - Sep 14th, 2019 at 7:06pm
 
John Grace wrote on Sep 14th, 2019 at 5:42pm:
I'm sometimes frustrated in that it doesn't always seem to 'settle' to the bottom of a crack.  Is there a thinner version I should be using or is it simply my own user error?  again...thanks.


It sounds as if you need/want a low viscosity epoxy
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #8 - Sep 14th, 2019 at 7:32pm
 
For cracks and even small voids I use either 5 min or 30 min epoxy from hardware store, usually Devcon brand I think.  For small cracks it is necessary to push/force the epoxy in.  For tinting I have a set of powdered tints such as champaigne, raw and burnt sienna and umber, blacks, reds, et cetera - might have been a kit of fresco powders from art store or from Mohawk.
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Glenn Roberts
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #9 - Sep 14th, 2019 at 8:10pm
 
John, what would happen if you heated the epoxy a bit, before mixing, and use a heat gun on your work? The claim is heat thins epoxy.
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Grant Wilkinson
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #10 - Sep 15th, 2019 at 6:05am
 
When warmed in a water bath, the 650 that I use is not much thicker than water. I've used 5-minute too and when it's warmed up, it gets quite thin. If the void is deep, I pour to fill it, then use a pin to poke it down and release any air that has been trapped in the bottom of the void. If the void goes all the way through the piece, I use packing tape to seal one side of it.
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John Grace
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #11 - Sep 17th, 2019 at 10:39am
 
thanks for all the great thoughts and suggestions...certainly some ideas to try.
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Mike Turner
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #12 - Oct 13th, 2019 at 4:40am
 
Not wanting to hijack this thread but what type of epoxy is used as a finish? for example on wooden flutes?
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Don Stephan
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #13 - Oct 13th, 2019 at 6:55pm
 
Mike
You might have better luck starting a new thread.  After my one and hopefully only experience with bar top epoxy I would not want to have to sand an epoxy finish.
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John Grace
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Re: CA Primer...
Reply #14 - Oct 20th, 2019 at 10:07am
 
So I found my solution and it was really quite simple.  I just ran the syringe of two-part epoxy under hot water for a minute or two and it became more workable.  The old adage comes true again...try the easy fix first.
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