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Finishing Pens (Read 263 times)
 
Kyle Scott
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Finishing Pens
Jan 22nd, 2020 at 8:54am
 
Good morning all,
I will be getting into pen turning aside from my normal bowls and spindle projects. I would like to avoid using CA for a finish but am still looking for something with long lasting durability. Any suggestions? Maybe something that cures faster than poly? Thanks for any suggestions!
-Kyle Scott
JET 1221VS
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Glenn Jacobs
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Re: Finishing Pens
Reply #1 - Jan 23rd, 2020 at 12:02pm
 
Kyle, I use CA. What is it about CA that you don't like?  I use a paper pad, place some BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) on pad then CA. Be careful of heat and be sure to wear vinyl gloves.

Glenn J.
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Steve Kniffen
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Re: Finishing Pens
Reply #2 - Jan 23rd, 2020 at 2:28pm
 
I use CA only when I have to for things like laser cut blanks and Spectraply where I need to seal the blank before I sand to avoid colored dust filling pores in different colored parts.  In general I'm not a fan of the plastic look that CA gives.

For wood pens my go to finish is Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus:  Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register

It's a friction polish with wax and shellac.  I use a paper towel (either standard kitchen brand or the blue shop towels) and put 3-4 coats on each wood pen.  It soaks in and melts from the heat.  It is a semi-gloss at first but becomes more of a matte finish as it ages. 

For synthetics (acrylic, poly, ebonite, etc.), I use Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish.  Couple of coats puts a nice shine on them.

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Kyle Scott
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Hannawa Falls, New York, USA
Hannawa Falls
New York
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JET1221VS
NOVA G3
Robert Sorby
Rockler
Re: Finishing Pens
Reply #3 - Jan 24th, 2020 at 12:33pm
 
Glenn Jacobs wrote on Jan 23rd, 2020 at 12:02pm:
Kyle, I use CA. What is it about CA that you don't like?  I use a paper pad, place some BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) on pad then CA. Be careful of heat and be sure to wear vinyl gloves.

Glenn J.

  Ive just heard CA glue can be tough to work with. Fast dry and bad fumes. Was just looking to go for a natural finish on the pens.. Not plastic looking. but still durable.
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Kyle Scott
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WR Rocks!

Posts: 28

Hannawa Falls, New York, USA
Hannawa Falls
New York
USA

Gender: male

JET1221VS
NOVA G3
Robert Sorby
Rockler
Re: Finishing Pens
Reply #4 - Jan 24th, 2020 at 12:34pm
 
Steve Kniffen wrote on Jan 23rd, 2020 at 2:28pm:
I use CA only when I have to for things like laser cut blanks and Spectraply where I need to seal the blank before I sand to avoid colored dust filling pores in different colored parts.  In general I'm not a fan of the plastic look that CA gives.

For wood pens my go to finish is Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus:  Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register

It's a friction polish with wax and shellac.  I use a paper towel (either standard kitchen brand or the blue shop towels) and put 3-4 coats on each wood pen.  It soaks in and melts from the heat.  It is a semi-gloss at first but becomes more of a matte finish as it ages. 

For synthetics (acrylic, poly, ebonite, etc.), I use Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish.  Couple of coats puts a nice shine on them.



That looks like the product im looking for! Thank you.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Finishing Pens
Reply #5 - Jan 24th, 2020 at 8:57pm
 
Kyle

Perhaps first you could list the finish properties you desire, in decreasing order of importance.  Then plan on using 6" lengths of wood dowel to get some experience with finishes and test the durability.

My understanding of friction polishes is that generally they are not as durable as some on the market.  Shellac looks wonderful, but may not be as durable as a urethane for example.  But you may not be needing the additional durability.  Wax I often see referred to as a coating rather than a finish, and being relatively soft compared to say a urethane or even shellac it may wear off more quickly than you prefer.  But your criteria are more important to you than to others.
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Glenn Jacobs
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Re: Finishing Pens
Reply #6 - Jan 27th, 2020 at 11:16am
 
Kyle, CA does have fumes if wood is damp. And yes, it can be difficult to use. But practice has shown me that it is a good finish for pens.
My method is to use Medium CA on a paper towel folded several times with several drops of Boiled Linseed oil (BLO) on it. The oil helps lube the CA. Then I apply several coats of light CA using same process. My pens do not have a high gloss, but look matte.

Glenn J.
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Louie Powell
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Re: Finishing Pens
Reply #7 - Jan 27th, 2020 at 12:07pm
 
[quote author=715A5B6A664150455D545B350 link=1579701261/5#5 date=1579917468]
My understanding of friction polishes is that generally they are not as durable as some on the market.  Shellac looks wonderful, but may not be as durable as a urethane for example./quote]

I also suggest avoiding shellac-based friction polishes, but a lacquer-based friction polish may yield the results you are looking for.  There are a few lacquer-based FPs on the market - PSI and William Woodrite for example.  It's a bit spendy, but you don't use much of it on a pen.  You can also make your own - a 1:1 blend of a brushing lacquer like Watco or Delft and a generic lacquer thinner is a good start, and you can also add an oil (BLO, Tung oil or walnut oil) if you wish (start with a 1:1:1 blend).

Another option might be a water-based polyurethane varnish (basically, floor finish).  It will dry faster than solvent-based WOP, and it's tough enough to walk on, but it tends to appear bluish on very light timbers.
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Louie
 
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