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micro adjuster (Read 373 times)
 
ALLAN KUNTZ
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gull lake, Saskatchewan, Canada
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micro adjuster
Apr 9th, 2020 at 8:16pm
 
I use a wedgie sled to cut my segments and am looking to extend it to both sides of the blade so my pieces come back rather than falling off the ramp that I now have on my zero clearance insert. Right now I use my incra fence tp make tiny adjustments. if anyone has any suggestion on making a micro aduster that I could make please let me know
thanks
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Don R Davis
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Jet 12-21 lathe. I now have a Powermatic 3520B as of 9/12/20.
Re: micro adjuster
Reply #1 - Apr 9th, 2020 at 8:29pm
 
Allan, this is what I did. Nothing fancy and use what you have.

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ALLAN KUNTZ
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gull lake, Saskatchewan, Canada
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Re: micro adjuster
Reply #2 - Apr 9th, 2020 at 9:22pm
 
Thanks Don but I plan on using the other miter slot as part of the sled. I am looking at mounting something right on the sled with some kind of screw adjuster. I may be dreaming
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Ed Weber
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Re: micro adjuster
Reply #3 - Apr 10th, 2020 at 9:34am
 
I say, don't over think it. it's just a stop block whether it has a micro adjuster or not.
On the table it's stationary, on the sled it moves with the segment stock but it can be mostly the same design for either application.
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Ray Stubbs
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Columbia, Mo., USA
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Re: micro adjuster
Reply #4 - May 8th, 2020 at 1:40pm
 
I tried a stop on the sled. So if you think about it, the piece being cut off, when it finally is cut off now it is wedged between the stop and the blade. This is not a good situation, because if it moves ever so slightly, the blade will sling it out of the sled. This happened to me.
The raw material is held by a clamp, but when it is cut, unless there is a clamp holding on the other side of the blade, watch out.
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Ed Weber
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Re: micro adjuster
Reply #5 - May 8th, 2020 at 3:02pm
 
Ray Stubbs wrote on May 8th, 2020 at 1:40pm:
So if you think about it, the piece being cut off, when it finally is cut off now it is wedged between the stop and the blade. This is not a good situation,


When you set up most every other cut in the world (NOT A WEDGIE SLED) you are measuring the distance between the fence and the blade or the miter stop and the blade.
With a wedgie, you're making a cut where the piece you want to keep is essentially what most of us would call the drop-off or wild end and it can be less accurate.
There are times when one may need to make such a cut  but this is an individual method of work.

Any cut made where a piece of wood will be caged between a fixed stop and the blade should be clamped in place. I would go out on a limb and say this is how most people did this before the wedgie and many still do.

One drawback to the wedgie sled segments IMO is that the dropped segment is not supported during the cut. When making this type of cut many have made zero clearance inserts with a ramp. This helps to support the wood during the cut as well as direct it away from the spinning blade for sequential cuts without powering down.

In the photos, the shelf (flat side on top) is about 1/4" wide at the blade. This can be further minimized to accommodate very small piece if necessary simply by planing the sloped side down.
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Ray Stubbs
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Re: micro adjuster
Reply #6 - May 9th, 2020 at 7:14pm
 
Ed, so if you use the fence as a stop, how do you clamp the piece being cut? If I use the fence as a stop, I would put a narrow piece of wood between the fence and the piece being cut off, but move that extra wood out of the way before cutting.
I like the zero clearance insert, good idea.
My saw is a Sears and was bought in the late 70s. So there is lots of clearance around the blade, which is not always a plus.
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Ed Weber
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Re: micro adjuster
Reply #7 - May 9th, 2020 at 8:54pm
 
Ray Stubbs wrote on May 9th, 2020 at 7:14pm:
Ed, so if you use the fence as a stop, how do you clamp the piece being cut?


I don't
If I use the fence (with block clamped to it) as a stop, the cut piece is left behind as I push through the blade.
With a sled that covers both sides of the blade, I clamp the cut piece against the fence and stop block to retrieve it after the cut.
Yes it's more time consuming but I feel it's more accurate to have the piece clamped tight against the stop block all the way through the cut.
Butting up against a stop and then pushing past and through the blade with little to no support has more potential issues.
JMO

I forgot to mention, I prefer to have my keeper pieces between the stop and the fixed side of the blade. No matter what blade I use, standard kerf, thin kerf or dado, the measurement on the fixed side will always be the same. With the other method, one must calculate blade kerf into the measurement.
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« Last Edit: May 9th, 2020 at 9:02pm by Ed Weber »  
 
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George Stratton
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Old Delta 12" 46-701 in great condition. Had it about 20+ years and turned 1 part.
Re: micro adjuster
Reply #8 - May 10th, 2020 at 11:08am
 
This is the setup i use for segments on my 1962 Craftsman table saw. Plenty of room for the piece to drop with no binding and its supported during the cut. I always clamp the piece (paranoid). No micro adjuster but could easily add a screw type to the right of the fence made from a bold and a block of wood. Wink
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Ed Weber
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Re: micro adjuster
Reply #9 - May 10th, 2020 at 12:58pm
 
Nothing wrong with your setup, looks very safe.
I don't use a stair tread as a stop block but my setup is quite similar when making this type of cut.

The one this I will point is that the back side of the piece being cut is not supporter on both sides of the blade. You have a fence on one side, nothing on the other. This is common for sleds (or what I call half-sleds) like the wedgie. NOt a deal breaker but you can experience blow out of the fibers that aren't supported.
This is why I prefer a full sled, with a fence that supports the entire piece on both sides of the blade or a half-sled with an extended fence.

Back to the OP's query about a micro adjuster, I have an after market one that's used on my TS fence, it works just the same when useing your rip fence as a stop-block.
You can easily make something like this with a few common parts.
Hera's one that's ver simple to copy.
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The photo show the one I have.
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George Stratton
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Old Delta 12" 46-701 in great condition. Had it about 20+ years and turned 1 part.
Re: micro adjuster
Reply #10 - May 10th, 2020 at 1:45pm
 
Nice setup Ed. I think I’ll work on a new sled. I have to remove one screw and use a different hole to change angles, the pivots are under the clamps, should have been slots. As far as the micro adjustment, I already have an old magnetic base and a depth mic from my tool making days need to make use of them. Thanks much Ed.
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Ed Weber
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Re: micro adjuster
Reply #11 - May 10th, 2020 at 2:17pm
 
This one is very easy, has three "quarter-sized" magnets on the back, so it's secure enough to push my fence. A clamp type is actually more secure, just takes a few more seconds to move when necessary.
I completely forgot to post this photo
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