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Tailstock Drill chuck antispin trick (Read 399 times)
 
Paul Haus
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Re: Tailstock Drill chuck antispin trick
Reply #15 - May 27th, 2020 at 6:02pm
 
I'll probably try that strap clamp.  If not that, maybe the next idea.  Not the first thing I've had to make or modify to do a job, and expect it won't be the last.
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Leo De Bruin
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Re: Tailstock Drill chuck antispin trick
Reply #16 - May 27th, 2020 at 10:14pm
 
I use a T- handled Allen wrench that fits just into the  key hole off the Jacobs chuck,  I then move my tool rest parallel to the J chuck and rest the Allen wrench on that and I just push it along the tool rest as the drill bit goes into the wood. Simple and safe.
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Paul Haus
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Re: Tailstock Drill chuck antispin trick
Reply #17 - May 27th, 2020 at 10:32pm
 
Leo De Bruin wrote on May 27th, 2020 at 10:14pm:
I use a T- handled Allen wrench that fits just into the  key hole off the Jacobs chuck,  I then move my tool rest parallel to the J chuck and rest the Allen wrench on that and I just push it along the tool rest as the drill bit goes into the wood. Simple and safe.

Good idea, that's likely one I'll try.  Thanks.
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Arlin Eastman
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Re: Tailstock Drill chuck antispin trick
Reply #18 - May 28th, 2020 at 7:52am
 
Louie Powell wrote on May 27th, 2020 at 11:45am:
Arlin

If I understand correctly, your suggestion is to make a draw bar can be used to secure the jacobs chuck to the tailstock ram.  There are two problems with that suggestions.

First not all lathes have a hollow ram in the tailstock that permits use of a drawbar.  The ram in my midi lathe is a solid piece of metal, so a drawbar cannot be used.  I can use a drawbar in the headstock, but not in the tailstock.

Second, a drawbar secures the male morse taper to the female morse taper, but in the case of jacobs chucks, that doesn't mean that the chuck itself is secured.   In many jacobs chucks, the taper is actually a double-ended arbor with an MT at one end, and a different taper (typically,  JT-33) at the other end.  While you can secure the arbor to the female taper, it is still possible for the JT-33 to 'break free' allowing the chuck body itself to rotate (or worse yet, come off altogether - DAMHIKT). 

I don't know what the original reason was for having this arrangement, but when I upgraded from a small lathe with MT-1 tapers to a midi with MT-2 tapers, it made it possible for me to upgrade my jacobs chuck by replacing only the arbor, thereby saving a few bucks (which I then promptly spent on other stuff). 



Thanks Louie I forgot all about that.   Thumbs Up


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Bill Moschler
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Re: Tailstock Drill chuck antispin trick
Reply #19 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 9:21am
 
I often have the problem of the chuck turning in the Morse taper.  I use mostly twist drills and the flutes pull the chuck towards the work with a little steady vibration.  Perfect way to loosen a taper.   I do often hold it in by hand.  I do some fairly deep drilling so the flutes are often engaged past their full length.

My taper adaptor has a threaded hole at the rear, I assume for a drawbar.  But...the shaft of the rear spindle extends from the rear of the tail stock when retracted and then goes forward to where it is recessed in the tailstock when extended. I need to make a drawbar that is the same diameter as the spindle so that it can follow into the tailstock.  First I need to determine the thread size on the Morse taper adaptor.  Sounds like a good project for today.  Guess I will take it to ACE and try screws until I find one that fits.
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« Last Edit: Jun 25th, 2020 at 9:22am by Bill Moschler »  
 
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Ed Weber
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Re: Tailstock Drill chuck antispin trick
Reply #20 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 10:14am
 
One suggestion would be to insert your drill chuck into the tails stock morse taper and strike it once with a dead blow hammer. This is usually enough to properly seat and secure the connection for all but the most extreme situation.

Morse taper connections should not routinely loosen, which is what It sounds like from some of you out there.
They can loosen, or want to slip/rotate when the torque becomes too much. This is usually due to,
Large diameter bits
Cutting speed RPM too high
Dull bit
Feed rate to high.
Clogged flutes (to a small extent)
Any combination of the above.

That's my 2 cents
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