I don't know how long this has been around but
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Finally! A tool that is designed to align your blade to the Band saw, not the other way around. Almost too good to believe that some people are finally starting to come around.

If more people aligned their properly, there would be less need for all the gadgets, myths and nonsense, JMO

robo_hippy wrote on Apr 1^st, 2021 at 10:33am:


That's what I've been talking about for twenty years.
MOST people are under the notion that if your cut isn't straight you either adjust your fence, buy some gadget or perform some type of sorcery to "fix" blade drift.
The tracking adjustment (that most every saw has) IS the way to adjust your blade for a straight parallel cut.

Many people avoid changing their blades because they have difficulties aligning them for an acceptable cut.
For those, like many turners, who simply use a BS for rough cuts and knocking off corners, this is not a big deal.
For those who re-saw, dimension lumber and use sleds on their BS, a blade that runs true and parallel to the fence/miter slot is required.

robo_hippy wrote on Apr 1^st, 2021 at 10:33am:

The top wheel is crowned and the entire wheel tilts.
No matter where the blade is positioned on the tire, (due to tracking adjustment) the teeth should not touch because of the above mentioned design. Many people do not get this simple concept and put the blade in the center no matter what else is going on.
This, IMO is the source of most all of the issues involving blade drift nonsense and "solutions"

Also I'll mention for the sake of painful explanation. Three parts of a BS blade, teeth, gullet, band.
The teeth cut and should not contact the tire .
the gullet clears away swarf and debris from the cut, some contact with the tire is acceptable
The band drives the blade and is the only part that needs to contact the tires.
If you feel the need to center your blade, center the portion that actually needs to contact the tire.

JMO

Yes it is, although the principle is still the same.
I will say, that trying to cut parallel in anything using a 1/8" or 1/4" blade isn't really what I was getting at. Those blades are usually used more for cutting curves.
For any blade I use,
Roughly center and then use the tracking adjustment on the saw to adjust the blade until it cuts parallel. It really doesn't matter the size of the blade to me.
I don't or won't endorse the above mentioned product, although it at the very least suggest you adjust your blade not you fence (or anything else).

Why?, because a blade can cut straight without being perfectly parallel to the fence. like a vehicle that is Dog tracking,
The cut is what counts, not how you think the machine should be aligned.