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Jim Canning WR Noob Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 12 A Nova 3000 and a Jet 1015 mini	Signing your work Feb 24^th, 2023 at 12:59pm I try to sign my work, but my handwriting is very poor so I was thinking about getting a branding iron to use. Is this a good Idea? If so where would be a good place to get one?
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Ed Weber

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Re: Signing your work
Reply #1 - Feb 24^th, 2023 at 1:19pm

Branding Irons work fine. Any decent woodworking store should have one, Rockler, Woodcraft, etc.
You can either get electric or a less expensive, heat with torch style.
There are also many places where you can get customized heads for your handwriting or logo.
Small laser engravers are also another option and give an added level of flexability

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Glenn Roberts

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Re: Signing your work
Reply #2 - Feb 24^th, 2023 at 6:53pm

I use a laser instead of a branding iron because my penmanship is very poor, the type of wood and date are included. Sometimes notes like "Hancrafted for Jane..." If it's just your name, the iron would be fine I think, especially if the surface of the wood matches the surface plane of the iron. I would think varying print density would result if there were a slight hollow below the iron.

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« Last Edit: Feb 24^th, 2023 at 6:55pm by Glenn Roberts »

The older I get, the better I was........

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Glenn Jacobs

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Re: Signing your work
Reply #3 - Feb 25^th, 2023 at 10:05am

I use an electric branding iron for my logo. Bought off esty was (chinese made). Takes awhile to heat up (20-30 minutes) enough to brand hard wood. It's good and sometimes frustrating due to keeping it horizontal. My logo on flat stock needs to be oriented correctly. Bowl bottoms doesn't matter. There is a learning time to hold the iron on the wood to burn in the logo.
Only have pdf file of logo, so can't post it.

Glenn J

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Woodworking all my life. Turning since ~93

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Walt Nollan WR Addict Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 1,998 Hanford California USA Gender: PM 3520A	Re: Signing your work Reply #4 - Feb 25^th, 2023 at 6:16pm I’ve used the Cub wood burner by Colwood pyrography with a pencil tip for years. I recently upgraded to a laser etcher for signing and other possibilities. But if you can’t push a pencil to sign your work you’ll have issues with a pyrography pen so I would recommend a laser etcher.
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Leo Van Der Loo

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Re: Signing your work
Reply #5 - Mar 3^rd, 2023 at 3:18pm

I will put another slant on the signing, and that is like turning, you practice to get better.

Just getting a branding iron to mark the wood in not like signing, plus then you get to have room for the branding, have it just hot enough and not too hot or cold, held just the right length of time and not tilted, a surface that is nice and flat, etc.

I remember well that the lowest mark on my report card was always the one of my writing.
even when I told my teacher that I could read my writing just fine Wink

So I use a pyrography pen, and it is not always easy with the hard and soft year rings, by writing slowly I do alright usually, and can add my name, the wood species used and the year it was finished, more info if there is enough room for it.

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Jeff Vanden Boogart WR Addict Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 919 Rural Green Bay Wisconsin USA Gender: PM 3520	Re: Signing your work Reply #6 - Mar 3^rd, 2023 at 9:27pm I'm with Leo. A hand signed piece just seems more professional and/or personal. Five minutes of practice on a regular basis can make a big difference if you want better penmanship. People don't seem to mind Picasso's poor writing though...lol
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Edgar Sims Full Member Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 94 peoria Arizona USA Gender: Jet 1642	Re: Signing your work Reply #7 - Mar 10^th, 2023 at 2:31pm Cindy Drozda signs her work by soaking with medium super glue then signing with a Dremel vibrating tool and filling in with gold or black varnish like material, I've used the stuff I get from Brownell's. Then sanding and spraying with whatever she used on rest of her turning. I believe it looks more crafted than commercial. Ed
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Tim Tucker

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Re: Signing your work
Reply #8 - Mar 11^th, 2023 at 8:35am

Nothing says "made on a production line" like a big 'ole branding iron!😁
I have the Dr.s handwriting (- not his income or education...just his horrible writing😜) still - it was mandated by my mentors in woodturning I MUST at least put my signature - no matter how bad or illegible it is on every piece I intend to give away or sell. So, for me the compromise has been a small wood burned logo in the bottom center, and use of a fine Sharpie to serial number and my signature. It covers all the bases and the serial number contains a date code and the number of bowls I have made for sale.
Whatever you choose - make it personalized by at least YOUR personal hen-scratch writing. People value that a real person cared enough to put his name on his work.

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« Last Edit: Mar 11^th, 2023 at 8:36am by Tim Tucker »

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Dwight Rutherford Senior Member Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 463 Roseville California USA Gender: Jet 1642 Rose Engine	Re: Signing your work Reply #9 - Mar 11^th, 2023 at 10:42am Tim, Your Sharpie will fade away in a couple of years. Suggest using an “archival” pen. Available at art supply stores or Hobby Lobby.
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David Moeller Senior Member Offline Old chiseler Posts: 295 Linden Michigan USA Gender: LAGUNA REVO 15X24 CONOVER 15 x Infinity Long gone: Shopsmith, Myford ML8, Homebuilt bowl lathe, NOVA benchtop, Delta 46-715 and a Unimat.	Re: Signing your work Reply #10 - Mar 11^th, 2023 at 11:52am They still sign fine-art prints in pencil. Graphite doesn't fade. Give it a spritz if you're concerned about smearing.
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