I chose to a square turning. It"s a little smaller than the 4x3x3 but I didn't have anything else that I felt would work. This is made from Ash. Not the best for square turning as I found out as the coarse grain tends to chip out, but I managed to make it work. I think I am going to have to continue with this.
This is one of my favorite non-traditional styles. Folks see them and just ooh and awh and just can't imagine how in the world it was done. Looks very nice from here. By your comment about it chipping out I'm guessing that your ash was dry.
Can you tell us more about the process you used for this? I've been wanting to "whirl" one of these and would love to hear the up close and personal of what you found.
Nice job Keith, these forms aren't easy to pull off well, many I have seen have a foot that "floats" off the surface. I'm assuming, as Philip asked, that the bowl is raised up off the surface? Tip for next time with ash...to help combat tearout or chipping, coat the surface with some paste wax before your last pass or two, it will help your tool glide better. I really like the bead at the rim, it sets off the bowl shape nicely!
I wasn't sure what I wanted to do for this challange. I had another idea but when someone mentioned square turning that made my decision for me. I have never come close to trying this before. The piece is made from dry Ash. I knew this was the way I wanted to go and the Ash was the only thing I had dry to do it with. I didn't want it to warp and not sit on all four feet. That's why it's alittle smaller than the criteria asked for. I started with a piece 3 1/2" square nad 1 1/2" thick. I mounted it on a screw center and turned the bottom leaving the bottom of the bowl roughly shaped with a tenon on it for the chuck. I alternated cutting form the outer edge in, and from the center out until I got past the corners, then rough shaped the bowl and made the tenon. Then made one last cut form the corners to where side of the bowl would be. I found that high speed and a sharp tool were essential to get a good clean, chip free cut. The piece is then remounted by the bottom tenon in a chuck and the top is turned to match the shape created when the bottom was turned. I did a practice one where I kept the sides an even thickness but decided to go with the taper Pete mentond on this one. I forgot to say that the first cut I made on the back was straight in to create a small flat on the corners. I knew I would have some chipping problems and I didn't think I'd be able to get pointed feet on the Ash. They probably would have chipped off. When turning the top, speed and a sharp tool are needed again. Don't rub the bevel hard against the wood or it will flex at the corners and you'll have an uneven mess. Now I know what Stuart Batty means when he says, "float the bevel". Now turn the bowl opening. Your bowl wall was set when the bottom was turned. Keep track of where you are, don't take to much out of the bottom of the inside, you still have to turn off the tenon on the bottom. After completing the bowl, reverse the piece again, this put it on a jam chuck and support it with tailstock as long as possible. Finish the bottom of the bowl. The bottom of the bowl has to be higher than the feet of course or it will rock around instead of setting on all four corners. Pete,you spend too much time wandering around in my shop on Tuesday nights. Good idea for another one though. Thanks. And thanks to rest of you guys for the compliments, tips, and interest. Hey Rev, one more thing. When working the corners, watch the shadow line they create while spinning. Just like when turning a natural edge piece, it helps in seeing the line you want to cut.
That is a nice square edge bowl. I was actually considering doing one that rested on the tips like that myself. I have one similiar to the one I have posted in my gallery close to completion, but to late to do it that way.
I have found in my vase experience of 10 of these (all of which are posted) that sanding is the most painful part of this whole procedure, for me anyway.
I'm impressed. I've recently tried to turn that very shape and somehow ended with the wings pointed upward. Having tried that myself I know how hard it is. Looking at yours I wonder if you were to start with a 5 or 6 sided blank if the end result would look like a starfish?
Keith, when I tried to turn a square edge bowl I had a hard time getting any tool to cut the tight corner where the bowl meets the square part on the bottom side. The wings that curve towards the bottom got in the way and I got some good nicks in my knuckles. And mine had nowhere near the curve to it that yours has. Just curious how you did it.
cf, I had the same problem. I could only cut so close with the bowl gouge even working in from both directions. What I wound doing was getting as close as I could from either side with bowl gouge and then switching to a 3/8 spindle gouge with a finger nail grind that has a long bevel [at least longer than what they come with when you buy them] and the sides ground well back to take out the remaining area, again, working in from both sides.
You have to be carefull of leading edges on the square, they dont stay as crisp as the following edge. Fine bowl Keith, you have me wanting to have a go now Ive see it, Ill let you know.
Maples turns well with this form.