The Woodturning Forum - Woodturner's Resource - Ebonizing

Craig_Jackson Senior Member Offline You can never fail if<br />you never give up.<br /> Posts: 364	Re: Ebonizing - LONG Reply #15 - Jun 16^th, 2008 at 5:43pm What is advantage of this concoction over just using (black) dyes?
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Ron Sardo WR Administrator WR Patron Online Chief cook and bottle washer Posts: 9,675 Drums Pennsylvania USA PM 3520	Re: Ebonizing - LONG Reply #16 - Jun 16^th, 2008 at 7:15pm Craig_Jackson wrote on Jun 16^th, 2008 at 5:43pm: What is advantage of this concoction over just using (black) dyes? That's like asking which is better, a Ford or a Chevy.
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JimQuarles WR Addict WR Patron Offline WR Rocks, BIG Time! Posts: 13,194 Glendale, AZ Arizona USA Gender:	Re: Ebonizing - LONG Reply #17 - Jun 16^th, 2008 at 7:28pm Ron Sardo wrote on Jun 16^th, 2008 at 7:15pm: That's like asking which is better, a Ford or a Chevy. Let's not open that can of worms. JimQ
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MikeInMo

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Re: Ebonizing - LONG
Reply #18 - Dec 29^th, 2008 at 6:09pm

I am going to bring this thread back with a few questions.

First, a couple of curiousity questions about the method - How important are the proportions in the recipe really if the steel wool ends up rusted eventually? Can "previously rusted" steel wool be used? What do the nails actually contribute to the process?

Now the real questions. I assume it is a shallow staining that can't take much sanding without wearing through. Is that true? Can any clear protective finish be used over an ebonized surface, or do weird chemical things keep happening?

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john Taylor

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Re: Ebonizing - LONG
Reply #19 - Dec 29^th, 2008 at 6:29pm

This is an old old recipe. If you would like a rich chocolate brown on maple or other light colored woods, a wash of potassium permanganate after the rust/vinagar wash creates a dark brown with orange highlights in the dense grain areas.

Perhaps a foolish question, but if you are using water-based stains, why not use aniline dyes? You aren't messing around with chemical stains that may not be light-fast or unstable over time. The results with aniline's are far more predictable, and color mixing tested on scraps can provide the exact effect you desire.

Unless you are attempting to replicate an antique finish, I see no advantage in using chemical stains....

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MikeInMo

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Re: Ebonizing - LONG
Reply #20 - Dec 29^th, 2008 at 6:43pm

john Taylor wrote on Dec 29^th, 2008 at 6:29pm:

This is an old old recipe. If you would like a rich chocolate brown on maple or other light colored woods, a wash of potassium permanganate after the rust/vinagar wash creates a dark brown with orange highlights in the dense grain areas.

Perhaps a foolish question, but if you are using water-based stains, why not use aniline dyes? You aren't messing around with chemical stains that may not be light-fast or unstable over time. The results with aniline's are far more predictable, and color mixing tested on scraps can provide the exact effect you desire.

Unless you are attempting to replicate an antique finish, I see no advantage in using chemical stains....

I don't know if that was directed at me or everyone, but it is just something I have never done and would like to try. I have a project that I need some dark contrast that I think ebonizing would be a good fit for.

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john Taylor WR Addict Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 1,079	Re: Ebonizing - LONG Reply #21 - Dec 29^th, 2008 at 10:31pm Mike, I wasn't directing it anybody in particular. I have used the formula a few times myself on maple gunstocks (blk powder rifles) and in repairing a couple of antique furniture pieces, but the anilines can do the same job much easier and are more permanent. But hey, play with it. No harm, no foul.
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John West Active Member Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 191 Gender:	Re: Ebonizing - LONG Reply #22 - Feb 25^th, 2009 at 4:06pm Has anyone ever tried applying black shoe polish and then buffing? Just wondering. . .
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Ron Sardo WR Administrator WR Patron Online Chief cook and bottle washer Posts: 9,675 Drums Pennsylvania USA PM 3520	Re: Ebonizing - LONG Reply #23 - Feb 25^th, 2009 at 8:10pm Yes, it shows up kind of blueish. Brown looks good too. What I like best is leaving the black in the pores, sanding off the top surface, then add brown. I don't think I would market it, but it's fun, not to mention quick. BTW, I use clear shoe polish inside of many boxes.
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Mike Baber WR Addict WR Supporter Offline When all else fails, ask someone who knows! Posts: 5,969 Cross Hill South Carolina USA Gender:	Re: Ebonizing - LONG Reply #24 - Feb 25^th, 2009 at 8:38pm Maybe I should be asking Stu in Japan this question... but what about that black ink/dye you see being used to write with in Japan. kinda like in the movies... Is that an ink or a dye and will it work to dye wood??? Hey Stu... Hows about it son... with it work and if so can ya get that stuff here in the states?
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John West

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Re: Ebonizing - LONG
Reply #25 - Feb 25^th, 2009 at 10:19pm

Quote:

Yes, it shows up kind of blueish. Brown looks good too.

What I like best is leaving the black in the pores, sanding off the top surface, then add brown.

I don't think I would market it, but it's fun, not to mention quick.

BTW, I use clear shoe polish inside of many boxes.

Thanks Ron, I'm going to try all of the above. Cool

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