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Dying wood (Read 3,366 times)
 
David Hamann
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #15 - Feb 26th, 2009 at 6:01pm
 
what about using the liquid rit dye as is??
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Norbert Dupas
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #16 - Feb 26th, 2009 at 10:10pm
 
Do you soak the bowl in it?  or do you apply it with a rag or brush or whatever?
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E. Bud Gillaspie
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #17 - Feb 26th, 2009 at 10:51pm
 
Don your rubber/plastic gloves and apply w/a soft, lintless, cloth. Rit will "build up" the more coats you apply to a sanded, raw, wood, piece. This makes it easy to control the color.

If you want to try something really funky try Potassium dichromate. WARNING: If you do try PD be very, very, careful, it's bad stuff. You'll need acid-proof gloves and respirator. I think David Marks has a miniturorial on his web site  Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register

I've never tried liquid Rit but I suspect it will work as well.
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« Last Edit: Feb 26th, 2009 at 10:53pm by E. Bud Gillaspie »  

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Norbert Dupas
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #18 - Feb 26th, 2009 at 11:26pm
 
thanks,  but I'll stick to non-hazardous materia.

...bert
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Mike Baber
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #19 - Feb 27th, 2009 at 6:26pm
 
David Hamann wrote on Feb 26th, 2009 at 6:01pm:
what about using the liquid rit dye as is??



I tried the rit dye, soaking it in pure dye and after sanding it lightly, I had to reapply several times, it may have been the wood I used but it doesn't penetrate well if you use it with out diluting it, I haven't tried watering it down, but that is my next test to see if I can get it to penetrate better. That is why I asked about the ink used in Japan... Hey Stu... wheres my answer young man... hehehe
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Dale Gillaspy
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #20 - Feb 27th, 2009 at 8:40pm
 
I am in the early stages of experimentation, but I will pass on what I have found, and what I have watched others who are very good do. I use analine dyes, that come in powdered form. Some will mix with water, and some with denatured alcohol. I prefer the alcohol, but it really doesn't make that much of a difference.

I use only light colored woods, and try to find ones with a lot of figure. Dye will not make a boring wood exciting, but it can really enhance a lot of figure or burly grain. I like to mix colors and blend them to add layers. It is not my technique, I watched who else...Jimmy Clewes do it, and watched his video about 20 timed until I figured out what he was doing.
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #21 - Feb 28th, 2009 at 7:55am
 
Mike Baber wrote on Feb 27th, 2009 at 6:26pm:
David Hamann wrote on Feb 26th, 2009 at 6:01pm:
what about using the liquid rit dye as is??



I tried the rit dye, soaking it in pure dye and after sanding it lightly, I had to reapply several times, it may have been the wood I used but it doesn't penetrate well if you use it with out diluting it, I haven't tried watering it down, but that is my next test to see if I can get it to penetrate better. That is why I asked about the ink used in Japan... Hey Stu... wheres my answer young man... hehehe


I had the same results. I even tried placing the wood and dye in a vacuum chamber and that didn't help much.

My guess is the particles of dye that Rit uses are to big to pass into the wood deeply.



Quote:
I am in the early stages of experimentation, but I will pass on what I have found, and what I have watched others who are very good do. I use analine dyes, that come in powdered form. Some will mix with water, and some with denatured alcohol. I prefer the alcohol, but it really doesn't make that much of a difference.


One difference between water and alcohol based aniline dyes is water based dyes don't fade as fast as alcohol based dyes. Since alcohol dries quickly, the dye doesn't penetrate into the wood deeply, hence it fades.  
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« Last Edit: Feb 28th, 2009 at 8:01am by Ron Sardo »  

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Re: Dying wood
Reply #22 - Feb 28th, 2009 at 9:28am
 
Many of you will remember this goblet for the C&T.  The apple stem is dyed red with Rit dye.  I have it mixed in a water bottle that started with just shy of 1/2 a bottle of water and a whole package of Rit.  I then shook the bottle really hard until I could not hear any more of the grit hitting the sides of the bottle.  I repeated the shaking for several days.  Best I can tell, there are no solids that are not in suspension. 

To get the deep red color, I applied and let it dry for about 5 minutes.  I sanded with 600 and reapplied the dye.  Dried and sanded again.  A third application of dye with the same drying and sanding times.  Finally a 4th application of dye that I rubbed down with steel wool lightly and began to apply finish.  It was the 4th coat of dye and the finish that gave the pop I was looking for. 
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E. Bud Gillaspie
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #23 - Feb 28th, 2009 at 1:32pm
 
You folks are diluting the Rit dye base too much. Use less warm water. Apply the dye the same as a wipe-on poly.
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #24 - Mar 7th, 2009 at 8:38am
 
Go to     Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register
and look at the NGR stains. No mixing or diluting needed. That is about all I use. I wipe or spray.

Very high quality, low prices, great people, great selection....
I have no affiliation other that I like thier stuff. They got good spray lacquer too.
Craig_Jackson
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« Last Edit: Mar 7th, 2009 at 8:38am by Craig_Jackson »  

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Re: Dying wood
Reply #25 - Mar 7th, 2009 at 5:04pm
 
Thanks for that link, Craig. I see lots of potential purchases at that site.  Wink
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #26 - Mar 8th, 2009 at 12:12am
 
Thanks Craig.  I had come across their site a while back and lost it. 

Huh R U reading my mind, again?  Undecided
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Re: Dying wood
Reply #27 - Mar 14th, 2009 at 1:04pm
 
PRESSURE TO ABOUT 50LBS IN A PVC HOLDER FOR ABOUT 1 WEEK WITH TRANS TINT AND ALCHOL FOR THE RED AND BLACK smiley=thumbsup.gif
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