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Paste wax versus bees wax (Read 3,813 times)
 
Paul St Onge
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Paste wax versus bees wax
Feb 18th, 2015 at 12:19pm
 
  Whats everyones thoughts on the two? I have beeswax and a paste wax with orange oil mixed in.  What experiences have you had with these?  Let  me know the good and bad of both finishes.  Thanks a bunch for the info!
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JimQuarles
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #1 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 12:24pm
 
Most of the paste waxes have carnuba wax in them.  It is a harder wax than beeswax.
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #2 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 12:51pm
 
Wax is not a finish
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Paul St Onge
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #3 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 1:22pm
 
A newbie using wrong terminology. Go figure!
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« Last Edit: Feb 18th, 2015 at 1:39pm by Paul St Onge »  
 
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #4 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 2:19pm
 
I'm sorry you took it that way Paul. It wasn't meant as an insult.

Wax was not considered a finish even before there was the internet. This misinformation usually came from people who themselves read it on the internet who in turn propagated bad information.

To be clear, wax is something you put on top of a finish.

What do you plan on using the wax for and I can assist with some guidance?
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Richard Pyle
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #5 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 3:59pm
 
Be careful w/ orange oil, it is used in paint removers. Can take off the finish...
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Paul St Onge
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #6 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 5:17pm
 
  All I've used so far for a finish is mineral oil.  Two to three coats over the course of three days.  Let set for about another day and then coat with the wax
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #7 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 6:38pm
 
Sorry Paul

Think of refined motor oil when you use mineral oil.

Mineral oil never dries, so no mater how many coats you apply its still wet oil.

Applying wax on mineral is a poor coating on wood. It doesn't even rate as finish a since it does nothing to protect the wood.

It might look good for a day or two then you'll need to reapply more oil.

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Paul St Onge
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #8 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 6:54pm
 
Whats everyones preference for a finish? Willing to try about anything!
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« Last Edit: Feb 18th, 2015 at 6:54pm by Paul St Onge »  
 
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Jennifer Hasan
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #9 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 7:16pm
 
Everyone has their own preference.

I recommend conducting a search on the forum for "finishes." You'll get dozens of posts you can read through.

The search tool is a great resource. I've learned so much. Some of the threads are really funny too! Great entertainment late at night when you can't sleep.

Jenn
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John Cepko
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #10 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 7:52pm
 
Paul St Onge wrote on Feb 18th, 2015 at 6:54pm:
Whats everyones preference for a finish? Willing to try about anything!




Short answer is it depends.
It depends on the piece, the wood, intended uses, and my mood.
There is no best finish for everything, least not to my limited knowledge.
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Louie Powell
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #11 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 9:03pm
 
Paul St Onge wrote on Feb 18th, 2015 at 6:54pm:
Whats everyones preference for a finish? Willing to try about anything!


All of the above.

Seriously, I use a lacquer friction polish, a shellac and wax friction polish, a tung oil varnish, pure tung oil, pure shellac, a linseed oil and paste wax friction polish, pure beeswax, WOP, and probably a few other things that I've forgotten.  It all depends on the piece, the wood, and what I feel like at the time.

Experimenting with different finishes is just part of the fun of woodturning.
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Rick Howard
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #12 - Feb 18th, 2015 at 10:36pm
 
Paul St Onge wrote on Feb 18th, 2015 at 6:54pm:
Whats everyones preference for a finish? Willing to try about anything!


What is your end product?
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #13 - Feb 19th, 2015 at 10:08am
 
Paul St Onge wrote on Feb 18th, 2015 at 6:54pm:
Whats everyones preference for a finish? Willing to try about anything!


Keep it simple at first

Go to you local big box store and buy some BLO. It should come in a quart metal container. Apply it like you were doing the mineral oil. If you see certain spots soaking up a lot of oil add some more to that area.  After 10-15 minutes or so wipe off any excess that may still be sitting on the of the wood.

From there try some varnish or poly

Wipe on ploy is just poly mixed with thinner, you can make it yourself.

From there experiment with shellac, lacquer, and tung oil.

Have fun
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« Last Edit: Feb 19th, 2015 at 10:11am by Ron Sardo »  

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Kathy Jekel
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Re: Paste wax versus bees wax
Reply #14 - Feb 19th, 2015 at 10:34am
 
I too use a variety of finishes, depending on the wood. 

A simple friction polish, which you put on as the lathe is running, can be made from equal parts of  Boiled Lindseed Oil (BLO), Clear Bulls Eye Shellac and Denatured Alcohol (DNA). I mix mine in a jar. Shake it up before use to mix well.  Wipe it on, let it soak in then, turn on the lathe and apply another coat.  I let mine cure about 30 minutes, then apply another coat.

Deft Clear wood finish is another I use often. It is a  lacquer that  can be brushed on or applied directly with a soft cloth. I use an old T-shirt.  It provides a clear finish but low sheen.  Apply this and let it dry completely before applying another coat or you may wind up with a gummy mess. 

Danish Oil is another good one.

Polyurethane is another finish, however I very seldom use it, as Galleries do not like the plastic look of this finish. I learned this the hard way, when a couple of pieces were rejected.

I would suggest that you apply for catalogs and read the section on finishes to see what finishes would apply to the projects you are doing.

I can recommend two I order from on a regular basis,  Woodcraft.com and Woodturnerscatalog.com

Hope this helps...maybe other will chime in on their finishes... Smiley
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Kathy Jekel
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