I've been turning for maybe 3 yrs., and started with a friction finish (1/3 blo-1/3dna-1/3shellac f/flakes). I tried making my own wop (50%poly-50%thinner). I have also tried a couple other purchased finishes, like rattle can lacquer and rattle can shellac, that I wasn't happy with. I am now giving Formby's tung oil a go.
I mainly turn bowls and hollow forms.
What do you use......I am curious.

Gary

Choice of finish is a very personal matter - not all that different from, say, boxers versus briefs. There are lots of options to choose from.

My suggestion is that a really good starting point for understanding the options is the late Russ Fairfield's "Finishing Secrets"  Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to or .  This series of articles covers essentially all of the options, and is especially helpful in understanding the DIY options.

My favorite finish tends to change from one day to the next, and often depends on the wood that I am working with and the item that I am making.  The leading contenders today include:
-  lacquer-based friction polish (equal quantities of brushing lacquer, lacquer thinner, and pure tung oil).  This is easy to apply, very quick, and produces a tough finish with a soft gloss that shows off the wood.
-  tung-oil wiping varnish (equal quantities of alkyd spar varnish, turpentine and pure tung oil).  Water resistant high-gloss finish, but takes time to apply properly.
-  pure tung oil (Formby's is NOT pure tung oil - it's a wiping varnish).  Water resistant, leaves a very soft gloss finish.  Not as tough as the lacquer FP, but focuses attention to the wood, both visually and by touch.  Takes time to apply properly.

With my limited experience, I have found that it does matter what you use on what wood. The final look can be so much different.
I am mainly just looking for/at what others use. I am on my 1st bottle of Formby's (as Louie says...not true tung oil) and not all that durable, or so I understand. Maybe there isn't a "one size fits all" finish.

Gary, my go to finish is equal parts of BLO, danish oil & wipe on poly.  I dip my bowls and HF in it and then dry them.  After it drys I will usually Beall buff the turning.  For a real high gloss finish, I have used spray lacquer but have also used wipe on poly--multiple coats.  Then again use the Beall buff.  I find I like the WOP better for the gloss as I'm not very good at rattle can spraying. 

For pens and bottle stoppers I use only CA finish.  I know some turners (Alan Trout) have also used CA finish on some of their bowls and HF, but the nature of the CA makes it a difficult task.

HTH
Steve

Len, I usually just dip.  Depending on how porous the wood, I may do it a couple of times.  On some of the pine that I have turned to help make it translucent, I have soaked it for a couple of days.  I have a little rack that I put it on when I pull them out that I put over the bucket that my solution is in and let it drip back into the bucket.  Once it has quit dripping I will use a soft paper towel to "dry" it. HTH

Can I tag on a question?

Someone recommended Minwax Antique Oil Finish. On the website, all I can find is that it is "an oil-based protective finish that gives wood a soft, hand-rubbed lustre."

Do you guys know what it is made of? And what are your thoughts?

Thanks a bunch,

Jenn

Jennifer,
The Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to or that should tell you what it's made of is basically worthless. From my understanding, it's just Minwax's version of a Danish oil or wiping oil. Just about every manufacturer has one or two of these type of products. Typically they use linseed oil as the main oil in the recipe but it is usually a blend that vary s from one company to another.
Even some products that say "tung oil finish" or "teak oil finish" may not contain anything other than linseed oil and some sort of proprietary blend.
Hope that clears things up a bit, ...clear as mud
If it has the "look" you're after, it's a fine product to use. again it's mainly personal preference.

Originally all commercial oil finishes contained either tung oil or boiled linseed oil (BLO). The more oil to solvent in the can the better the product. Slowly the manufacturers shifted towards BLO because it was less expensive.

Within the last 5-8 years or so the manufacturers shifted away from BLO and started using soy bean oil  (think cheap cooking oil). Since soy bean oil doesn't dry they added cobalt to aid in drying.

So if you see cobalt on the MSDS sheet you know they are using soy bean oil.

The commercial Danish Oil (DO) of 12 years ago was so much better than the DO of today. Truth is I stopped using commercial DO about 8 years ago because how crappy it became.