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Resin filling cracked blanks (Read 1,379 times)
 
Jim Henning
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Resin filling cracked blanks
Sep 28th, 2016 at 10:31pm
 
Hey everyone!

I bought a huge bit of english cherry while was stationed in the uk. It was green as heck and i did not take good care of it.  I milled down a lot of it and did not properly care for some of the bigger bits.  I now have a bit that i am determined to turn but nature has decided that it would not like to be turned.  It cracked, and cracked horribly.  I got this piece specifically to make an urn for my poor deceased pooches' ashes.  My question is if it is so cracked, can i fill the cracks with polyresin/alumilite type stuff and get it hardened enough to be safe to turn. otherwise i have to cut it down to pen and other blanks.  I can upload pics tomorrow of the horrible crack, just wondering thoughts on filling with resin then turning for a hollow figure.
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Bert Delisle
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #1 - Sep 28th, 2016 at 10:41pm
 
One could consider using something like West System epoxy. I and others in our guild use epoxy, it flows like water into all the recesses. In fact it takes a good tape job to keep it from leaking out. Once cured it has good strength. It can be coloured easily with small amount of acrylic paint.
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Steve Kniffen
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #2 - Sep 29th, 2016 at 7:08am
 
Some of the wisest advice i ever got about turning was "Life's too short to turn bad wood."  Gave me a whole new perspective on what I would or would not try to salvage. 

IF you decide to fill the cracks and turn it, please make sure you have the guard in place on your lathe.  If it's a big chunk, you might consider wearing a riot helmet like Lynne Yamaguchi went to after her accident. 

Good luck with it.
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Tom Coghill
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #3 - Sep 29th, 2016 at 9:47am
 
Bert - Can you share the brand of epoxy that you have used?  I wonder about mixing a water based (acrylic) paint with epoxy and having it not impact the curing of either item.

I have used a clear colored product in voids and found it works well, however the kits are not cheep ($25) and I have found the shelf life to be short on the unmixed materials.  Photo below of product that I have used.

The voids must be filled with a HARD filler, something that one can finish to a high polish.
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Bert Delisle
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #4 - Sep 29th, 2016 at 10:58pm
 
Tom Coghill wrote on Sep 29th, 2016 at 9:47am:
Bert - Can you share the brand of epoxy that you have used?

I use this product, i have never tried water based acrylics in the epoxy, only oil based paints.
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Tom Coghill
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #5 - Oct 3rd, 2016 at 4:19pm
 
Thanks Bert - I have found a marine supplier close to home that stocks this product. I will give it a try.    Thumbs Up
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Steve nix
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #6 - Oct 3rd, 2016 at 7:18pm
 
Burt, would you post a pic of something you've done with the epoxy. Thanks in advance.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #7 - Oct 3rd, 2016 at 7:26pm
 
Another product for tinting two part epoxy is fresco dry powders.  Perhaps they are sold at art stores?
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Tom Coghill
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #8 - Oct 4th, 2016 at 9:57am
 
I don't know how thin the resin is, but I would think that mixing in color (dry or liquid) would be best to do it BEFORE adding the hardener.  This would extend your mixing time and may allow one the ability to get more of the bubbles out before putting the epoxy on the wood....  just a thought.
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Glenn Jacobs
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #9 - Oct 4th, 2016 at 12:32pm
 
The West System has a long (20 minute) working time. Alumilite casting resin is about 15 minutes, but be sure EVERYTHING (air, wood, etc.) is dry.
West System is like water, Alumilite is like maple syrup. 

To really fill the cracks, you want to use a pressure pot.

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Jeff Vanden Boogart
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #10 - Oct 4th, 2016 at 10:11pm
 
I normally use the 209 extra slow hardener.  You got an hour to fool with it in cool temps, probably 2 hours in my shop in the winter...lol.  Plenty of time to soak into all the small cracks...so you'll need to keep adding more.  It'll run right through at times, so a lot of masking tape is needed on the back side.  I use modeling clay to build walls around the top side of larger cracks to keep the epoxy from running where I don't want it, and also act as a reservoir.
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william trench
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #11 - Oct 10th, 2016 at 12:14pm
 
""Some of the wisest advice I ever got about turning was "Life's too short to turn bad wood.""
Right on. IMHO... Unless it is for practice, why bother ? Would something 'special' you turned really look that good in the end  with a filled crack  ? Seems to me it would detract more than decorate.
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Bert Delisle
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #12 - Oct 11th, 2016 at 6:50pm
 
Steve nix wrote on Oct 3rd, 2016 at 7:18pm:
Burt, would you post a pic of something you've done with the epoxy. Thanks in advance.

Here is a buffalo bowl that uses west system epoxy. There is at least 3/32 gap around the Buffalo, and between the blanks. Then the assembly is turned into a bowl. The blank was about 2" thick.
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Bert Delisle
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Re: Resin filling cracked blanks
Reply #13 - Oct 13th, 2016 at 1:21am
 
Here is what the epoxy'd blank looked like before turning. Epoxy was coloured with a few drops of acrylic paint.
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