facebook needs more curmudgeons and less armchair experts who parrot other armchair experts.

I guess I just joined the curmudgeon club.

Well speaking curmudgeonly, there seems to be a misunderstanding about finishes at a very basic level among many woodworkers these days.
Many times, turners specifically, are impatient and want the fastest application and drying finish for their piece to free up the lathe. This leads to all of the suspect finishes you're seeing.

When I started, I began using Friction Polish, like many do. I still have hlaf a the original can,  because it's not durable enough for me. Nothing more than a quick seal and wax that wears off rather quickly. NOT a finish in my book.

It's difficult, at best, to try to "provide needed education and understanding" as Don said. Far too many are not receptive to anything other than advice from a YT influencer.

You're not alone Bill

Yep, these days everyone is an expert snowflake.
They know everything and can't be criticized. 
The fawning comments on any YT video are enough to make you sick.
Dog bowls are dog bowls, no matter who makes them.

I use a variety of things.
I typically apply X finish with the piece on the lathe to cure overnight, This way I can free up the lathe in the morning and the piece can be handled if necessary. I'm fortunate enough to have a few chucks, so I am able to leave the piece mounted and easily re=mounted on the lathe if required.
I use polyurethane/oil finishes (usually Generals Finishes brand), citrus/tung oil blend, anything really.
I don't require my finish to be fast-cure, I really don't believe in rushing a finish, typically those are the least protective IME
There's more than on wat to skin a cat, whatever works for you

Edgar, I use the bowl finish (used to be salad bowl finish)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links). It has more oils in it and IME better penetration than the Arm R seals, which are top coats. It's not clear, there is a slight tint but I find, if used on certain woods, it doesn't matter.

Another product I use is Half & half, no not the creamer.
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A good tung oil finish that doesn't stink you out of the shop.

I've had a similar circumstance where product A was bought out and product B was "supposed to be the same" but never really worked out for me either.

From another curmudgeon - - -

I make my own finishes using pure Tung oil, various solvents, and commercial lacquers and varnishes.  I also keep a can of commercial WOP in the shop, but I don't use it very often - I prefer a finish that is less plasticky.  I like Howard's FeedN'Wax, and occasionally use it when I need something really fast, but I normally reserve it for polishing finished pieces.  My usual selection includes:

•   Lacquer-based friction polish (1:1:1 brushing lacquer, tung oil, lacquer thinner) - pens and other small items.
•   Wipe-on lacquer (1:1 brushing lacquer, lacquer thinner) - stoppers and other items where I want to avoid the amber color of associated with oil-based finishes
•   Pure-oil finish (1:1 tung oil and limonene) - scoops, spoons, etc
•   Shop-made tung oil varnish ((1:1:1 pure tung oil, alkyd varnish, turpentine) - when I choose to not use one of the above, ie, most of the time
•   I have made a version of the shop-made varnish using a commercial polyurethane/Tung oil varnish on items that may get heavy use/abuse (ie, walking sticks and canes)

I also keep shellac, but reserve it for use as a sanding sealer before using an oil finish rather than as a final finish itself.

When using oil finishes, I wipe it on, let it sit for 30-45 minutes, wipe off any excess, wait 2-3 hours, buff with a gray Scotchbrite pad, and repeat.  Typically three applications, but sometimes more.  I may also either use a polishing wax or buff to leave a smooth surface, but not so much to create a glossy finish.

I make up small quantities of finishes that I store in recycled glass jars (that formerly contained spices from the supermarket).  A small jar remains usable until depleted, and my wife provides a steady supply of replacements when they get too gummy.  Commercial brushing lacquer seems to last in the can, but commercial varnish eventually self-cures.  I recently tried to use a 'stop-loss bag' to store bulk commercial varnishes, but found that the process of decanting the varnish from the can to the bag was very fiddly; I accidentally dropped an open full quart can of rather expensive Tung-oil varnish so I'm looking for a better solution.

Louie

Would you identify the alkyd varnish you use, and whether it is still sold?  I loved to use a thinned alkyd varnish, but two or so years ago it was discontinued.  An internet search at that time did not find any other available alkyd varnish.  Thank you.