Thanks for posting the above video.  As for the method I will pass. I just do not like a real long extension from the 3 jaw wi9th wood as the material.  Fine unti it comes out.

Watch the video.  There is no tailstock.

I think that os a 3 jaw chuck shown in the video.  I have one for my wood lathe.    If there is a very long extension from the chuck the piece will wobble a little.  And if you run the extended end in a center to hold it straight then it will tend to work the piece loose in the chuck.   But in the video there is no tailstock.  In practice the spur drive with the hollow cup center works fine.  No need for the chuck.  Look at the long boring kit at Packard Woodworking.

And no, I am not saying you cannot do it with a chuck.  But it is not the way I would prefer to do a long piece.  Though I do it with pieces I consider short enough all the time.  One reason I have the 3 jaw is for drilling inserts for fishing rod reel seats.  I do usually use a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock.  I have to reposition the tail stock a couple of times.  Though I just recently got a set of pen jaws for my Nova chuck that work well also.

If I was to use a chuck and the hollow center I would be sure that the but of the piece is jammed solidly against something in the chuck so that the piece can not be pushed back into the chuck any further by the pressure from the tailstock when it loosens.  That way one can be sure it will not come out.

I am not a great fan of the dovetail chucking method for bowls, etc.  All of the pieces I have had fly from my lathe came from that kind of setup.  Usually do to a wood failure.  I am so old fashioned I bought several faceplates and much prefer to glue a block on the blank and use a faceplate.  So take what I say with a proper grain of salt.

Woodcraft lists a 3 jaw chuck for the Delta Midi Lathe.  A small one.

Rich Gouette wrote on Nov 6^th, 2017 at 10:36am:

You say confident, I say either ignorant of the potential dangers or complacent.
Use a spindle steady
While the spindle in the video is only about 8" long (guesstimate) it's also turning at a very high rate (unknown RPM) but IMO too fast due to the fact that it heats to the smoking point in about 1-2 seconds.
The longer the bore needed, the longer the bit, the more heat generated, the more potential for twisting and so on.
Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to or shows the very basic principles for long hole boring, without any mention of technique, safety or commentary of any kind it's entirely up to use to exercise common sense.

Don Stephan wrote on Nov 5^th, 2017 at 8:15pm:

Three jaw chuck is mentioned by the person who posted it in the description section of the video.

As I mentioned earlier this is a somewhat specialized procedure (long hole boring) so much so that Axminster sells a "system" for just this purpose.
Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to or .

In your case where the stock will be almost as long as the bed, a banjo mounted steady should work. Here is a pic to show the general idea. This is from F. Pain's book The Practical Wood Turner.

3/16" seems like an awfully small bore... What are you making?

Here is another idea for a diy steady rest.