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Glenn Roberts

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Pore filling
Jan 30^th, 2018 at 8:16pm

Made a walnut goblet - or something close to it. Has dimples in the finish from unsealed pores. What is the secret sealing process the pros use, and what is your favorite sealer? The inside bottom of the goblet tends to collect a greater amount of sprayed water based finish, so those pores sealed nicely. The entire outside is a different story. Any info will be appreciated.

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robert baccus Full Member Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 67 Gender:	Re: Pore filling Reply #1 - Jan 30^th, 2018 at 11:50pm Mohawk Heavy solids sanding sealer--straight out of the can--two coats--maybe more? Easy and fast.
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Don Stephan

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Re: Pore filling
Reply #2 - Jan 31^st, 2018 at 8:55am

The "secret" is to apply enough material to bring the entire surface above the level of the pores, then sand back until the surface is level. The material can be pore filler, sanding sealer, or finish.

Sanding sealer is by design a relatively soft and easy to sand material. That softness however means a thick film of sanding sealer left under a finish is not ideal.

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Glenn Roberts Senior Member Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 413 Walworth, NY New York USA Gender:	Re: Pore filling Reply #3 - Jan 31^st, 2018 at 9:46pm Thankx Robert and Don -- Will try your suggestions. Walnut is stunning, but my finish technique does need a lesson.
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Don Stephan WR Addict Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 2,659 Cincinnati, Ohio Ohio USA Gender:	Re: Pore filling Reply #4 - Feb 1^st, 2018 at 8:12pm Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. I prefer 5 or six hand rubbed coats of wiping varnish, which builds to a semi-gloss, but does not completely fill the pores - texture reminds me that the bowls are from a natural product. (My wiping varnish is a 50-50 mix of good quality mineral spirits and Pratt Lambert 38 gloss alkyd varnish.)
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Glenn Roberts Senior Member Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 413 Walworth, NY New York USA Gender:	Re: Pore filling Reply #5 - Feb 2^nd, 2018 at 7:33am Don, Hopefully the pics will point out the texture of the surface - a little much for me - just want to tone it down a bit. Not trying to get a "manufactured" finish; a little texture for this walnut piece would be fine I think. Waiting to get the Mohawk sealer. Will try your wiping finish. Thankx.
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Don Stephan WR Addict Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 2,659 Cincinnati, Ohio Ohio USA Gender:	Re: Pore filling Reply #6 - Feb 2^nd, 2018 at 9:02am Will be interesting to see others' thoughts. To me, the finish looks thick and the pinholes suggest air bubbles were trapped in the pores. This may be a problem with the finish and/or application conditions and not need pore filling. What was the finish, how was it applied, and at what temperature?
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Glenn Roberts

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Re: Pore filling
Reply #7 - Feb 2^nd, 2018 at 10:21am

Don, You're right, the finish is thick, at least on the bottom. Did that to see if it would fill in like the inside of the cup.
The finish is Minwax Polycrylic (water based) sprayed with a hvlp gun, and the temp was just above freezing Shocked

. I put the piece inside between coats. I do need an inside spray booth. Have done this rinky dink process with other wood types and it came out OK. I do shake the can. No sealer or other type base was put on. Went from sanded wood to finish.

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Don Stephan WR Addict Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 2,659 Cincinnati, Ohio Ohio USA Gender:	Re: Pore filling Reply #8 - Feb 2^nd, 2018 at 8:11pm The instructions on the Minwax web site for Polycrylic in the can do not mention spraying, and say to brush thin coats. It is possible the finish bridged over the pores, trapping air bubbles.
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Mike Nathal Active Member Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 232 Strongsville Ohio USA	Re: Pore filling Reply #9 - Feb 4^th, 2018 at 8:24am This is just my opinion, but those don't look like the pores in walnut. It looks to me like you need to sand the piece to a smoother surface prior to applying finish.
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Glenn Roberts Senior Member Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 413 Walworth, NY New York USA Gender:	Re: Pore filling Reply #10 - Feb 4^th, 2018 at 2:38pm Maybe, but side grain stuff comes out ok. I sand to 1000, sometimes to 2000, then use compressed air to blow it off. Maybe I shouldn't blow out the pores. Next time I won't. Then follow up with a sealer or filler, sand then finish.
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Clark Pittman

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Re: Pore filling
Reply #11 - Feb 4^th, 2018 at 5:31pm

Hi Glen, In my opinion a big part of the problem is the temp at which you put on the Minwax Polycrylic. I’ve had pretty good luck with the same finish on walnut but application was with a brush and at temp of 60 degrees or more.

Ran across a video on you tube just a few minutes ago that sounded like something I may try in the future: Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!! You need to

or

Good luck and I’m sure you will let us know what you find that works for you.

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Don Stephan

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Re: Pore filling
Reply #12 - Feb 4^th, 2018 at 6:21pm

You might consider experimenting on some scrap flat boards if you have any scrap walnut. Sanding can stop at 350 and still get a smooth finish if there aren't other issues. Apply the finish the same way on one sample, a thinner coat on another, and maybe the same way after the wood and finish have been to at least 60 deg for 24 hours.

As an alternative you could run the experiments on ash or oak, to see if the different conditions produce a noticeable result on the larger pored wood.

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robert baccus Full Member Offline WR Rocks! Posts: 67 Gender:	Re: Pore filling Reply #13 - Feb 5^th, 2018 at 12:59am Oh yeah--I forget--sand down the HB SS to level and shoot a coat of thinned SS to cover the sand throughs. Should look like glass finished out.
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